Tzfat
Tzfat, also called Safed, is one of my all-time favorite places to visit in Israel. It’s a beautiful, ancient town in the upper Galilee which has been considered one of Judaism's four holy cities since the 16th century. I’ve been here countless times and keep discovering new gems along the little alleys every single time I'm here. As far as I know, Tzfat is on the agenda of many birthright programs (Birthright Israel gives young adults with jewish background the chance to explore Israel on a free journey of 10 days). Besides the birthright tourism, not many people have Tzfat on their radar. That’s why I decided to show you why I think it’s absolutely worthwhile visiting.
Be aware that Tzfat is a religious town, so everything - literally everything - shuts down as soon as Shabbat starts (before the sun sets on a Friday). After that, you can’t get anything for dinner outside, unless you’re lucky enough to get invited to a Shabbes dinner by a stranger (things like that do happen in Israel). In case you’re not that lucky, there is a lovely restaurant with beautiful views close by in Rosh Pina, which is called Pina Barosh and it’s open on Fridays!
Here’s where to go:
Besides strolling through the artist’s colony, my absolute favorite stop is at Kadosh Cheese - the Kadosh family has been making cheeses for over 3 generations. I discovered this place more than 10 years ago when I was spending the day here with a friend. Haim, who is currently running the dairy business, is one of the craziest, funniest and most welcoming people I’ve ever met. The first time we accidentally popped into his shop, where he also produces the cheeses next door, he pretended he’s been knowing us for ages and immediately prepared a tasting platter with all his cheeses, entertained us with his broken English, self-made pomegranate juice and halva. Ever since, I keep coming back and supporting his family business. Be aware that he calls every German female Barbara - apparently he once had a German girlfriend with that name and never got over the breakup…
Where to eat:
When walking along the art galleries, you will find a great Yemenite Eatery with traditional food such as delicious lachuch, malawach and jachnun. Everything is fresh and prepared right in front of your eyes. Side note: for some unexplainable reason I never took pictures when I was here! I was probably to greedy and didn’t have time for it. I hope you can forgive me for that. In any case, “Lahuhe Original” is a must visit when strolling through the streets of Tzfat. The music and the taste of the authentic Yemenite treats will pitchfork you right into a whole different atmosphere. Also, the staff is dressed traditionally which adds even more flair to the entire experience.
Where to stay:
A while ago, also by chance, when we were looking for restaurants in Tzfat after Shabbat had started, we found this unique Boutique Hotel called The Way Inn. Without exaggerating, it’s one of the most beautiful and picturesque hotels I’ve ever seen. It’s slightly hidden in the heart of the Artists’ quarter. The moment I saw it, I knew I’m gonna have to stay there one day. A few months later, my dear boyfriend surprised me with a birthday trip up north and a sleepover at The Way Inn. We had an incredible stay and were welcomed with birthday balloons, wine and cookies. I was so charmed.
Every room has it’s own unique design - my highlight was the bathroom, see picture below - how beautiful?! We stayed at the “Tiferet” Junior Suite with a private terrace from where we had an incredible sunset-mountain-view. However, I would say a private terrace is not necessary as the main terrace is even more beautiful and there were no people on it most of the time. The whole compound is so quiet and peaceful that you almost feel like you’re the only guest. The breakfast is simple, yet tasty - a rich Israeli style buffet, nicely prepared with attention to detail. Don’t expect a coffee machine, just enjoy the simplicity and the stunning views on the patio! I would definitely stay here again and again.
